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Spotted At The Shows Black And White

We’ve already established that it’s great to wear white after Labor Day. (Designers have given us umpteen great reasons to, and the only objecting party is likely your rulebook-thumping great aunt—all due respect to the lady, but times have changed.)

That’s what to wear; here’s how to wear it. Editors and stylists hitting the shows in New York and Europe—including tastemakers like Emmanuelle Alt (bottom right) and Kate Lanphear (top)—have been layering white, menswear-style jackets over black. It’s a strong, graphic look, but the classicism of black and white keeps it anchored. What to wear below? More black, of course—unless, like Natalia Alaverdian of Russian Harper’s Bazaar (bottom left), you want to dispense with bottoms altogether.

Photos: Tommy Ton; Alice Bensi / GoRunway.com (Emmanuelle Alt)

A Boys-Only Club No More

No yang is complete without a yin—exactly why designer Jun Takahashi has created a womenswear line to go with his already existing Nike x Undercover Gyakusou men’s collection. The designer, a dedicated member of the Tokyo-based runners club Team GIRA, first decided to combine his athletic passions with his design skills back in 2010, when he launched the menswear collection of light jackets and sneakers. The new womenswear collection, launching globally in mid-March, is equally full of function-meets-fashion pieces. Takahashi has thought of it all—carefully developed pockets for carrying keys in silence, underarm openings for max ventilation, and the list goes on.

But he does not sacrifice style. The womenswear collection, in natural colors like olive khaki, peat moss, and midnight fog, includes skirts with pleating (without compromising freedom of motion) and gathers in strategically placed spots for a slender look. Below, catch the new pieces in action in the label’s ad campaign video by director Katsuhide Morimoto.
—Kristin Studeman

Photo: Courtesy of Nike x Undercover Gyakusou

Versailles On Video, Courtesy Of Inez And Vinoodh

Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin had enviable access for their latest project: the run of Versailles, a luxury that’s historically been reserved for the likes of Louis XV. For Secret Garden, the video they created for Dior and posted to their Tumblr today, the duo shot models Daria Strokous, Melissa Stasiuk, and Xiao Wen Ju careering through the palace to the sounds of Depeche Mode. They’re not the last fashion tenants to take over Versailles, either. Next month, Chanel will show its Resort collection in its hallowed halls.

Plus, for more on the photographers, visit Style.com’s The Image Makers: Inez and Vinoodh.

Cameron Silver Packs for Cannes to Promote ‘Versailles ‘73 American Runway Revolution’

The L.A.-based Decades retailer/fashion historian narrates the doc on the Battle of Versailles, which pitted upstart U.S. designers against French couturiers. 3:45 PM PDT 5/10/2012 by Elizabeth Snead

Skin Is (Still) In

Calvin Klein hosted its Fall presentation this morning at the company’s 39th Street headquarters. Kevin Carrigan, the brand’s global creative director, was feeling jolly, not only because he’s headed to Bali for a break later this week, but also because revenues for the Calvin Klein business were way up for the fourth quarter last year. Walking us around the installation, he said, “It started with skin.” As in a second-skin jersey turtleneck (a hot item on the Fall runways) and faux animal skins ô la this snake pattern top and pants outfit, the collection’s strongest look. Python just won’t quit. We saw it on the Spring catwalks, and it slithered its way down plenty more for Fall; see Prada, Dries Van Noten, and Bottega Veneta. It can be a pricey trend to latch on to, which is where Carrigan and his head-to-toe prints ($69 for the top and $89 for the harem pants) come in.

Photo: Greg Kessler

Mila Kunis Does Dior

Christian Dior has enlisted its second Black Swan star, Mila Kunis, to be a face for the brand. Kunis, who calls herself a “jeans and T-shirt” type of girl, joins the ranks of Dior ambassadors like Swan co-star Natalie Portman, Charlize Theron, and Sharon Stone. The actress is the new face of the Mikael Jansson-shot Miss Dior handbag campaign, set to debut this month in international issues of Elle, Vogue, and Madame Figaro.

“Mila Kunis is a very talented young actress; she embodies the true modern woman. Her performance in Black Swan was remarkable. She is very gifted,” Dior deputy general manager Delphine Arnault tells WWD. “We are looking forward to a long relationship with her.”

Of her new role with Dior, Kunis, who just finished filming Oz: The Great and The Powerful with James Franco, admits, “I’m honestly just learning about fashion.” Lucky for her, Dior is not a bad place to start a fashion education.
—Kristin Studeman

Photo: WWD.com

The Latest From London

Some arena-playing rock bands travel less than young London’s designers. Those blessed by the British Fashion Council as part of the roving London Showrooms coterie have been on a whistle-stop world tour of late, hitting Paris, Hong Kong, L.A., and now, finally, New York, where they set up shop this morning to show their Spring wares to U.S.-based editors and buyers. To judge from the group assembled—including James Long, Thomas Tait, J.W. Anderson, Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Marios Schwab, and milliner Nasir Mazhar—the journey may have tired them, but it didn’t dampen their enthusiasm. Almost every designer queried revealed he or she had picked up international stockists along the way; among the city’s reigning favorites, Long and Anderson drew the most attention, but even the youngest in the crowd can now boast increased U.S. visibility. Central Saint Martins grad Simone Rocha, who showed her first solo outing this Spring after a few seasons under the umbrella of Fashion East, now sells her vintage-lace dresses, fluoro tulle sheer layering skirts, and plastic raincoats at Opening Ceremony. Craig Lawrence, a 2011 NEWGEN winner who showed loose-weave knits and cropped, elasticized jumpers, is at several Henry Beguelin locations. Interested buyers were swarming, suggesting more reach is at hand for many present.

New categories and techniques were on display, too. Jeweler and sculptor Jordan Askill introduced pieces with ethical amethyst, sourced from a mine in Zambia, which he worked into silver pieces with his trademark swallows (below left). (A giant swallow cuff, which opened to reveal a hidden compartment, blurred the line between his two pursuits.) Also in the new collection were his first fine-jewelry pieces, with tiny diamonds surrounding a faceted, hand-carved swallow pendant. Holly Fulton had begun working with mother-of-pearl for accessories and real seashells for statement-making jackets; the trick, she confided, is finding shells of uniform shape. Tait, whose finely wrought, voluminous pieces suggest Couture shapes, had a surprising new footwear collaboration: a set of crisscrossed trainers he designed with Nike. (He was wearing a pair himself, as was a model; he had no plans to produce them, he revealed, but persistent interest on the part of buyers may change all that.) And Sibling’s Cozette McCreery was on hand to show off her knitwear label’s first official women’s line, Sister by Sibling. Women had been ordering small men’s sizes for so long, she said, that she and her co-designers, Sid Bryan and Joe Bates, decided finally to cut and knit for them. They were cropped neon and sequin leopard tops (left) and two complementary, sweatshirt-style sweaters emblazoned with the words LOVE and HATE. They’d sold, she said, about evenly, though she expected more interest in LOVE. Call it a knitted insight into the human race.
—Matthew Schneier

Photos: Courtesy of Sibling; Courtesy of Jordan Askill

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Vikings’ contribution to stadium at issue in Minn.

It’s all meant to soothe concerns of lawmakers about a gambling expansion pegged to retire public debt. The stadium bill contemplates tens of millions of tax dollars from new electronic pull-tab and bingo games in bars and restaurants. The robust estimates have drawn plenty of skepticism.

“We’re playing some cards,” he told TV cameramen and reporters as he walked by.

In Cleveland, for instance, the Browns’ $290 million stadium opened in 1999 after three-quarters was financed by taxpayers. The gleaming Giants and Jets $1.6 billion stadium was built entirely with private funds.

The Vikings say their costs go beyond the upfront contribution. Officials note that they will pay annual rent and help defray operating costs of the building, which a public authority would also rent out for concerts, conventions, monster truck pulls and other activities.

Following Tuesday’s Senate vote, Bagley said the team is standing by the amount it pledged earlier, but he acknowledged the final package is “to be determined.”

As for the team’s contribution, Wilf won’t be cutting a personal check — at least not for most of it. The team expects to tap into an NFL loan program for as much as $200 million. It could also cash in on naming rights, sell seat licenses and leverage other new revenue streams from a state-of-the art-stadium.

The Senate added a new dynamic by adopting user fees on suites, parking and Vikings merchandise. The state would impose a 10 percent fee on suites and parking within a half-mile of the stadium, and a 6.875 percent fee on Vikings clothing, trading cards and other memorabilia.

Another $150 million will come from a redirected sales tax in Minneapolis, where the new stadium would be built.

Rep. Morrie Lanning, the bill’s House sponsor, said he was “not in a position to comment” when he stepped out of one meeting. A few hours later, Ted Mondale, Dayton’s chief stadium negotiator, also declined to talk.

But in convincing votes, lawmakers went on record demanding that the Vikings and private partners foot a bigger share of construction costs. It’s part of a broader skirmish over how much, if any, tax money should benefit a private enterprise owned by wealthy New Jersey developer Zygi Wilf.

The Vikings were closer than ever to a replacement for the 30-year-old Metrodome, but big hurdles remained. Both the House and Senate this week passed bills raising the team’s $427 million contribution — by $105 million in the House, $25 million in the Senate.

That would put the Vikings package somewhere in the middle of NFL projects over the past dozen years.

Throughout the franchise’s latest push for a publicly subsidized football stadium, team executives insisted they wouldn’t pay more. The $427 million figure was “set in stone,” Vikings Vice President Lester Bagley said as recently as last week.

___

Stadium backers risk losing some of their votes if the final resolution drags out. Two House members who voted yes on the bill — Reps. Greg Davids, R-Preston, and John Kriesel, R-Cottage Grove — both were to leave town Thursday on trips planned before the Legislature missed a self-imposed April deadline to finish the session.

AP Sports Writer Jon Krawczynski and Associated Press writer Martiga Lohn contributed to this report. Krawczynski reported from Minneapolis.

“The Vikings didn’t get whatever they wanted,” said GOP Sen. Julie Rosen, the bill’s chief sponsor. She said the team will have to come up with more to come away successful.

ST. PAUL, Minn. (AP) — Minnesota lawmakers working out a final Vikings stadium bill must decide how much money the team should put into the $975 million proposal.

Emerging from a closed-door meeting Wednesday, Republican House Speaker Kurt Zellers said he hasn’t spoken to the Vikings about the level of their stadium contribution and said it was “partially up to them to decide” whether to chip in more.

Conference committee members, legislative leaders and Dayton administration officials spent hours Wednesday behind closed doors in multiple simultaneous meetings. They were careful to avoid bringing together a quorum of conference committee members that would trigger a state law requiring legislative meetings to be conducted in public. They revealed little about the discussions.

The possibility the Vikings could move added an element of pressure to the current deliberations. NFL Commissioner Roger Goodell has personally lobbied Minnesota leaders to pass a stadium plan, and chatter about efforts in Los Angeles to nab a team is rampant.

Both the House and Senate were standing by Wednesday for the final product of a conference committee that by late afternoon had yet to meet.

A final bill would need to pass both the House and Senate before going to Gov. Mark Dayton, a strong stadium booster who would presumably sign it. Then it would be up to the Vikings whether to accept the deal.

The current Vikings stadium plan would be the third priciest in football, behind recently built facilities in Dallas and New York. The public contribution by percentage could still shift, but in all likelihood a Minnesota subsidy would cover between 40 and 50 percent of construction.

Recessionista Rubber Soul

Everyone and their mother is launching a groovy sneaker line. There’s Gucci, Louis Vuitton with Kanye West … and Nike updates their inventory constantly and makes you mad-insane trying to keep up and collect. But sometimes you just want easy. Quiet. Classic.

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Low and behold the Keds Champion Classic is reborn. Celebrities like Charlize Theron and Kristin Cavallari have been sporting these rubber-soled wonders on walks to Starbucks in leggings and mini-skirts. They have been around since 1916 and they stil look fresh!

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